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Eucalyptus Flooring

On February 28, 2011, in Building Materials, by jackie
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When you think of eucalyptus, the visions of cute little Koala bears, sitting among the branches, stuffing their chubby faces with leaves are sure to fill your head. You may even think of Australia. The scent of the craft isle at your local craft store might even fill your nose. Granted, eucalyptus can harvest many thoughts. But did you ever think about using it in your home, above and beyond an accent of the centerpiece on your dining room table? What about making it the centerpiece of your entire home?

Eucalyptus is another beautiful, eco-friendly option for flooring. Eucalyptus can look like any other hardwood made today. It can range from the appearance of a fine tropical mahogany, to a strong oak. Yet, it has all the “green” benefits of rapidly renewable hardwood. The eucalyptus tree is amazingly fast growing. Ready to harvest in as little as 14 to 16 years, the eucalyptus tree can grow to 14 inches in diameter and 120 feet tall in that time.

Eucalyptus was once only native and cultivated in Australia and nearby countries. You can now find it cultivated in California, Europe and South America as well.

Eucalyptus has a smooth and refined grain with the depth and shimmer of an exotic wood.

Eucalyptus is also very tough, resisting scratching, and dents, which makes it an ideal choice for flooring. According to experts, eucalyptus is 65% harder than white oak. Eucalyptus flooring is extremely affordable, often half the price of traditional wood flooring.

For certain applications, engineered eucalyptus wood can be used as an alternative to solid eucalyptus. When installing a floor in areas more prone to high humidity or variations in moisture, engineered eucalyptus flooring might be the better choice. There are other benefits to the engineered eucalyptus wood as well. It can come in wider widths than the hardwood version. The surface veneer is a full sawn veneer which means that it can be refinished multiple times. It often comes in a tongue-and-groove construction that allows it to be stapled, glued down, or floated.

Harvested from a 100% renewable crop, eucalyptus floors are beautiful, eco-friendly, cost-effective, and a long-lasting alternative to traditional hardwood floors.

Eucalyptus naturally has deep pink to reddish-brown to maroon tones. The color can vary quite a bit from one floorboard to the next. There are black streaks usually throughout. The natural rich coloring is what makes it a highly prized wood. Like most exotic woods, the color will darken with exposure to sunlight. You will never want to stain it. You will want to leave it the way it is and just apply polyurethane. The poly finish will add luster and depth. This will make your eucalyptus floor almost look three-dimensional. There may also be the occasional ingrown grain. The grain structure ranges from straight to wavy to interlocking. The grain is open and its texture is slightly coarse. Eucalyptus makes a good floor covering for high foot traffic areas. It holds nails well. It is resistant to termites and fungus.

Be careful when you sand this wood. The sawdust has been known to stain fabrics and window treatments. Make sure to have your work area ready ahead of time to avoid getting the sawdust on your clothing or your curtains. Do your best to control the sawdust. Because the grain is often irregular, it makes its workability more challenging. For example, you may need to sand certain sections of your floor more than others to create a smooth surface. Also if you are mixing species or colors, the pigment can bleed into some finishes.

Also, bear in mind, just because a product is considered “green” because of its sustainability and renewability, it doesn’t necessarily outweigh the “greenness” of the carbon footprint. Since eucalyptus is only grown in certain areas in the country, you may want to consider how it is sent to you. If it is not grown and manufactured in the United States, it is going to cost more to get it here. That will add to the price, as well as the footprint. Just some thoughts to think about before making a decision.

 

Recycling Carpet

On February 28, 2011, in General Information, by jackie
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Getting ready to lug your worn-out wall-to-wall to the curb? You’re not alone. As Americans, we get rid of some five billion pounds of carpet each year. That’s nearly seven times the weight of the Empire State Building!! Thanks to an industry/government group called the Carpet America Recovery Effort (CARE), you may be able to recycle the same rugs you would have thrown away!

CARE unites a national network of recyclers that turn old carpet into raw materials for new products, like composite lumber and carpet padding. Though the network is still in its infancy—recycling facilities aren’t available everywhere yet, and homeowners typically pay from 5 to 25 cents per pound of carpet to recycle it—more facilities are joining, and costs will likely drop as CARE expands. As of right now, recyclers are available only in 26 states.

Individual carpet companies are doing their part, too. Many manufacturers offer lines that contain recycled content, and some let you ship back samples and old rugs for free.

Some companies have carpet fiber that incorporates PET (polyethylene terephthalate) from recycled plastic bottles, using 100 percent postconsumer recycled content. The carpets made with recycled PET have face fibers with the highest percentage of recycled content. PET fibers are naturally stain resistant and do not require the chemical treatments used on some nylon carpet. PET Fibers retain their color and resist fading due to sun or harsh cleaning.  Shades can be richer and brighter than those found in nylon yarns.  Other uses of PET are car parts, insulation, transportation devices, and furniture stuffing.

Some nylon carpeting manufacturers use recycled content for their carpets. This is known as “recycled content face fiber”. While many factors contribute to the overall life-cycle costs of a carpet, one way companies can reduce impacts of the manufacturing process is to use recycled content in the face fiber of the carpet.  Presently, most recycled nylon comes from post-industrial fiber waste from creating carpeting. Pieces that are not fit for selling to the public, any mistakes in coloring, inconsistencies in quality, etc will lead to a carpet being recycled. The technology is rapidly improving to convert used nylon fiber into new carpet. As more used carpet becomes  available and manufacturing plants adapt their facilities to meet the new technology, the percent of post-consumer content should increase. Keep in mind that the amount of post-industrial content should not determine whether or not you purchase a specific carpet. As companies become more efficient at reducing waste in the manufacturing process, the percentage of post-industrial recycled content should drop.  It may not be possible to specify the exact type of face fiber, or the percentage of recycled content, but you can choose carpet manufacturers who recycle their fibers.

Some carpet tiles  uses 80 percent post consumer fibers to make new carpet tiles that are available in multiple colors.

Incorporating sustainability into carpet manufacturing means more than putting recycled content into face fiber.  Many companies offer recycled content backing, modular tiles that extend carpet life, recycled content cushion, durability, low- or no-VOC adhesives, techniques that eliminate the need for adhesives, refurbishing programs that extend carpet life, and recovery programs that keep carpets out of the landfill.  Several manufacturers have even committed to reduce the life-cycle impacts of carpet by reducing emissions at manufacturing plants, using solar or other renewable energy to power their plants, and making a commitment to reducing waste, toxics, and nonrenewable resource depletion.  Consider all of these impacts when choosing a carpet manufacturer.

Recycled content and recyclable carpet options each have their own merits and considerations, depending on your specific need. Since the face fiber backing can contribute up to 60% of the carpets material, purchasing a nylon face fiber with 100% recycled content backing is worth consideration. Closed-loop systems, where used carpet fiber and backing is made into new carpet and backing and which can be recycled into new carpet after its useful life, is important to strive for.

 

Natural Fiber Carpeting

On February 28, 2011, in Building Materials, by jackie
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Natural fiber carpeting comes in a variety of options. They include, but are not limited to, sisal, seagrass, hemp, wool, mountain grass, jute, and coir.

Sisal carpet is woven from fibers that come from the sisal plant, which is a type of agave cactus. Although the plant is indigenous to the Americas, more than half the sisal produced in the world now comes from East Africa. The African fiber is longer, finer and white, making it possible to dye clear, even colors, and to spin a consistent and smoother yarn. It’s considered the best in the world. Sisal can be dyed and is considered one of the most durable natural fibers available. It can also be combined with wool to create carpets with the softness of wool and the toughness of sisal. Sisal is a strong, stable and versatile material. It is naturally sound-absorbing, anti-static, and extremely durable. This tough, hard-wearing fiber is also naturally insulating and difficult to ignite.

Like most plant fibers, however, sisal absorbs moisture readily, therefore is  recommended that these materials be used indoors, in dry areas of a home or office. Additionally your sisal rug breathes and will regulate humidity levels within your home. This helps prevent the buildup electrostatic charges so you will never experience the shocking “zap” that can occur on a nylon or synthetic area rug. A sisal rug is definitely for use only indoors. Water and weather will rapidly degrade the fiber of a sisal rug and shorten its life considerably.

Because it is made from a renewable resource, sisal is environmentally friendly. Although it is available in wall-to-wall carpeting,  its most common application is in area rugs.

Maintenance for sisal flooring is not much different than a regular carpet. There are other considerations that should be taken to ensure the life of the carpet. You should vacuum regularly to keep dirt out of the weaves, which can rub the fibers and cause wear. Spills, even clear water, can stain the sisal because they bring the dirt back up to the surface. Any spill should be cleaned up immediately by blotting, NOT rubbing, with a clean cloth. Test any cleanser in an inconspicuous spot, since sisal is a natural fiber and cleaners may remove the dye.

Seagrass is inexpensive and the one of the most versatile of the natural floor coverings. Products made from seagrass fiber are relatively non-absorbent and very hard. They are stain resistant and dirt is easily swept or vacuumed away. An outstanding feature is that they have a non-porous surface that gives them a naturally smooth texture and sheen quality. Their rigidity gives them natural durability. They compliment a low dust, allergy free, naturally humid environment. Some people are drawn to seagrass carpeting because of their concerns about allergies.

Seagrass fiber, being a natural product, contains no chemicals in its manufacturing. However, some manufactures in the weaving industry do use a latex backing which make their products more durable, and also stops any adhesive that is used during the installation from coming through to the surface. Consumers who have carpet allergies can easily find ones that have a sewn-on cotton backing that contains no harsh chemicals. The fabric backing can have an added appeal over others with latex backing, as the fabric is often in a contrasting color, which can add a decorating flair to your decor.

Seagrass is a versatile woven rug that can withstand all the high traffic areas of your home. Seagrass is a hardy grass sea plant that is mostly grown in coastal regions of China and India, but can be found in other areas of the world. When harvested and dried, the seagrass is spun into yarns that are used to produce beautiful rugs. Seagrass is a green flowering plant with a complex root system. Being a natural product, it can be non-uniform in color. Similar to the variations found in woodgrain, this is normal and is considered part of its natural charm. However, during the weaving process, the skilled weavers sort the yarns and match the colors so that each rug is as close to uniformity as possible.

Segrass carpets can be used in any room in your house, it is best to place protective cushioning under pressure points of furniture,  because they tend to dig into the weave and damage the flooring.

Seagrass rugs are relatively easy to maintain as dirt does not cling to the fibers. Seagrass natural hues don’t show dirt readily, and regular vacuuming is the best method for keeping the fresh appearance of your natural fiber rug. Dry spills are easiest cleaned by scraping the material, working to remove the spill from the edges towards the center.

Remove any liquid spills immediately by blotting or patting dry with a clean cotton cloth. Do not rub the spill area as this can force the liquid further into the fiber. Again, work from the edge of the spill toward the center to contain the spill.

Hemp carpeting is referred alongside Mountain Grass. These rugs are a beautiful addition to any room, with natural brown and copper earth tones. These rich earth tones compliment furnishings of any style. Their definitive texture and various weaves make them a popular choice. Hemp and mountain grass rugs have almost a wood-like appearance. They are undyed and may show natural variations in color.

Mountain grass and hemp alike are both renewable resources as they grow rapidly and are not difficult to cultivate. They both grow 150 times faster than trees and produce four times the yield. All parts of the plants are utilized so that nothing is wasted. They are both long lasting fibers and can hold their shape even after years of repetitive daily use.  Hemp and mountain grass are anti-static, and repel liquids, making them naturally stain resistant. Mountain grass rugs are very hard and rigid to the touch. In most cases they are simply used as decorative pieces rather than for comfort. These rugs are crafted to stand the test of time.

Mountain grass rugs come in a variety of shapes and styles. The most popular rectangular rugs are designed to run down the middle of a room, creating a central area to arrange furnishings or art pieces around.

Maintenance of hemp and mountain grass carpeting is basic and effortless: regular vacuuming will do; if you have a stain to remove, you can easily use a non-chemical based cleaner.

Wool carpeting is a great choice for a green carpet, that has many benefits. It  is a non-allergenic fiber which does not promote the growth of bacteria or dust mites, nor does it give off harmful emissions. It  is resistant to compression due to the physical nature of the fiber’s natural structure. It is an excellent insulator of both temperature and sound. Wool is naturally flame retardant.

Maintenance of your wool carpet is no different than that of a synthetic carpet. Regular vacuuming, along with a rapid response and clean up of any liquid spills will ensure a long lifetime for your carpet.

With its soft silky luster, jute is a fine natural fiber. Because it is a softer natural fiber, jute is best suited to areas of the house that are not as heavily used. Jute is a very versatile, adaptable yarn which weaves well, looks and feels comfortable, and comes in natural tones. It can also be mixed with wool and linen, enabling more color variations, and improving durability. Mixing jute with other fibers allows for carpeting that can be used throughout the home except for in kitchens or bathrooms.

Jute, of the genus Cochorous, is made from the inner meat of the jute plant which thrive in damp heat in the climatic conditions of India and Pakistan. It takes about four months for the plant to grow 8-12′ high and shed its leaves, at which time it’s harvested, bundled, and soaked so the fibers can be separated from the stem. Then the jute is dried in the sun for two to three days. Next the fibers are run through a variety of mechanical steps that turn it into a yarn suitable for weaving.

Maintenance of a jute carpet is relatively easy. Just use some carpet shampoo and water to clean and keep it looking new. It can also be vacuumed.

Coir carpeting is made out of coconut husks. They are a coarse material with a great strength and capacity to resist wear and tear. Once the husks are removed from the coconuts, they begin their process to make Coir. They are kept in freshwater pools  for at least one year. The fibers are then pulled out and dried. After a thorough drying, the threads are finally formed by spinning.

Not only eco-friendly and economical, Coir can easily be cleaned. Regular vacuuming is great for cleaning a coir carpet.  Coir carpets with latex protection on the back are safe and durable. The probability of dirt and dust accumulation is less with a backed carpet.  Avoid synthetic products for cleaning like carpet cleaning shampoos.

Also know, Coir carpets are pretty rough in texture. They are great for high traffic areas, and you wont have to worry about your kids or pets destroying them. They might not be the best choice in carpeting for your bedroom, as they are quite prickly!

 

Counter tops

On February 26, 2011, in Building Materials, by jackie
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There are many different variations of green counter tops that you may or may not have heard about. We are going to focus on a few of the not so popular options. They are Paperstone®, Richlite®, TorZo™ Surfaces, Terazzo, and Icestone®.

Paperstone® is a counter top that is made from post consumer recycled paper and is bound with non-toxic resin, and then colored with natural pigments. After trimming them to length, the resin-saturated sheets are stacked and moved into a press where they are fused together under heat and pressure.

PaperStone®’s has a non-porous surface which ensures that for the lifetime of the counter top, it will be, and remain, stain resistant. Also, this means that little to no water will be absorbed by the counter top. Surface cuts or mars may be sanded or rubbed out with an abrasive pad and treated with a PaperStone® Finish.

PaperStone® is extremely hard and dense. This allows for additional applications beyond countertops.  You could have  PaperStone® furniture, vertical panels and partitions, signs and cutlery handles. Its superior strength allows for many innovative designs.

PaperStone® emits no radon gases and is VOC-free. It is heat resistant to 350°F and has been certified ‘food safe’ by NSF, the public health and safety company.

Richlite® is made using tree pulp from managed forests in the USA,  and binds them with a non-toxic resin. Richlite® counter tops are stain, scratch, and heat resistant.They are also very sanitary. They are strong enough to be used in long cantilevers and spans.

Richlite® sheets come in a variety of colors and sizes to suit any design style in the kitchen, bathroom or office. Richlite® is one product that stands out for its unique paper content, natural look and warm appeal. It’s produced out of environmentally sustainable materials, unlike stone countertops quarried out of permanent holes in the ground.

TorZo™ Surfaces are made from agricultural byproducts, such as wheat straw, sunflower husks, and recycled wood fibers and chips. Currently, there are 7 product lines, which are Indure, Orient, Seeta, Durum, Tiikeri, Parda, and Hemp, which each come in four standard colors,  Onyx, Cocoa, Copper and Natural . The raw materials are infused with water based resins to form hard, reliable, non-toxic surfaces that have many uses.

All of the products created by TorZo™ Surfaces, are follow the same process of creation. Each product is infused with a polymer resin which gives the recycled material the strength to become a solid surface that can be used in many different applications. Orient is made up of 75% recycled wood chips, and 25% non-hazardous acrylic polymer. Indure is made up of 65% MDF Board, and 35% acrylic polymer. Durum consists of 70% wheat straw, and 30% acrylic polymer. Seeta is made up of 70% pressed sunflower seed hulls, and 30% polymer. Tiikeri is made up of 50% sugar cane stalk, and 50% polymer. Parda is made up of 65% recycled particle board and 35% polymer. Hemp is made up of 60% hemp hurds and 40% polymer.

Terazzo is a line of exquisite surface materials crafted from recycled glass that can be utilized anywhere natural stone is used; countertops, tabletops, architectural cladding and more.

All of the glass used inTerazzo is recycled, and it makes up approximately 85% of the final material. The largest source of glass is from local recycling programs. Other glass comes from post-industrial usage, windows, drinking glasses, stemware, automotive glass, stained glass, laboratory glass, reclaimed glass from building demolition, and other unusual sources such as decommissioned traffic light lenses. Because of the unique nature of the glass used in the production process, you could almost say that each piece of Terazzo is one of a kind.

Terazzo is comparable in strength, scratch resistance, thermal resistance, durability, and care and maintenance to granite. Terazzo can be used wherever granite or other natural stone surfaces are used. One key difference between granite and Terazzo is that, because Terazzo is made entirely in the US and is composed of more than 85% recycled material, Terazzo is one of the most environmentally friendly surface materials on the market.

IceStone is a sustainable durable surface made with 100% recycled glass and a cement mixture. IceStone surfaces are produced in slabs and come in a wide variety of colors. Their durable surfaces are ideal for kitchen countertops, bathroom vanities, shower walls, tabletops, flooring, etc.

One of the only inconveniences to IceStone counter tops is the recommended maintenance. Once the product is installed, it is recommended that you monitor the surface. If you notice water no longer beading up on it, then it is time to re-seal and wax the surface. It is recommended that all installations to be resealed 2-3 times a year. There is nothing bad about having to reseal the IceStone if you can get yourself into the habit and routine. Every 4 months, start checking the beading of the water. There is no information of whether  a “spot” sealing is sufficient, meaning resealing the heavily used areas, or the entire surface as a whole needs to be resealed.

Along with resealing, know this: because IceStone is composed of cement and recycled glass, it is porous by nature, and is susceptible to etching and staining. Some popular products that may stain or damage IceStone are coffee, wine, colas, citric juices, oil and vinegar based products, harsh chemicals, bleach ammonia, and/or acid based cleaning products. IceStone requires the application of a penetrating sealer in order to prevent the absorption of any liquid stains. Acids can etch the cement in IceStone, so the application of a topical concrete wax is required. If any product does come in contact with your counter top, clean it up quickly.

 

Cork Flooring

On February 21, 2011, in Building Materials, by jackie
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Did you know that cork is not only used for wine stoppers, bulletin boards, and coasters?  Cork also makes an excellent choice in flooring. Cork flooring is comfortable, quiet, and very resilient.

The best cork is reserved for wine bottle stoppers. Bottle stoppers account for 60% of the cork market. When the  wine corks  are produced, as with any other produced product, there is also waste, or cork that may not be up to the standards for use in bottle stoppers. Cork flooring is made from the material not used in making wine corks. Cork flooring is another fabulous environmentally conscious choice for your flooring needs.

All cork products come from the bark of the Cork Oak tree. The bark is harvested by peeling it away from the trunk and branches every 6 – 12 years. The greatest part about this, is there is no need to cut down the tree. Also, unlike other types of trees that may die when they have their bark removed, the Cork oak survives and will grow its bark again within a decade. Cork oak trees can live 200 years or more, allowing for harvest many times, which makes it an ideal green material for manufacturing.

Cork flooring comes in different styles and shapes. The most popular are tiles and planks. Cork tiles and planks are available in many colors and patterns. Cork is baked resulting in various degrees of natural color. Darker natural hues are achieved through a longer baking process.

In order to satisfy a new demand for cork flooring products, manufacturers today are using stain to improve color, and allowing for an infinite number of color choices. Now almost any color can be found to suit your needs. Cork is an extremely versatile product regarding design. Instead of choosing a single color throughout your space, get creative and choose a few and personally create your own pattern for your floor. Cork flooring has the ability to truly transform any space.

Due to the resilient nature of cork, when an object is dropped, the floor will absorb the fall and then return to its original state rather than scratching, and helps reduce breakage to both the flooring, and to the dropped item. Cork flooring also has a non-slip surface. The cellular structure of cork makes cork flooring a natural insulator. The natural insulation properties of cork help to reduce heating and cooling costs but will also be warm under foot. They will also absorb sound, and have a strong ability to absorb vibration.  This makes it perfect for dampening sound in a room, or for reducing sound transfer between floors. Cork flooring is also very pet friendly. The soft resilient surface and insulation qualities of cork flooring, you will not be able to hear your dogs barreling across the floor!

Durability of cork flooring is generally related to the type of product used to finish the floor. Water-based polyurethane and wax finishes are the most common finishes used today, which both have certain advantages and disadvantages.   Like all natural flooring products, scratching can occur, however it is usually caused by dirt and sand particles when left un-swept.

Corks natural structure contains a substance called suberin. This naturally occurring substance is a waxy material with many beneficial qualities. Suberin acts as a fire inhibitor which will not spread flames or release toxic fumes if combustion occurs. Suberin along with the cellular structure of cork make the floor water resistant. Again it is recommended to protect your floor from obvious danger regions with area rugs or mats. Natural products will have a negative reaction to water when left standing for longer periods. Make sure to use rubber backed, or some other waterproof mat underneath any water containing appliances.

Cork is also a logical choice for families that suffer from allergies or asthma.  Cork flooring is naturally hypoallergenic because of the Suberin cork resists the growth of mold and mildew.  And because it is antistatic, it won’t attract and accumulate dust and pollen particles.  Cork does not give off any gases or shed fibers of any kind, making it ideal for those with respiratory problems

There are a few cons to cork flooring, but as long as the proper precautions are taken, any of these issues are very easily resolved, or made non-existent. There is risk of permanently damaging your floor if  sharp and heavy objects are left on the floor for extended periods of time. Items such as furniture and appliances will be the most common culprits, so protect your floor by using padding under the pressure points of your heavy items. Pets may also play a hazardous role to your flooring, especially if they have long or sharp claws. Ensure that your cats don’t scratch or claw at the flooring. A scratch post should alleviate the problem. Also, keeping your dogs nails trimmed will help ensure they don’t accidentally dig and mar the flooring.

Depending on the type of finish you have chosen for your floor will determine the level of maintenance and upkeep your floor will require.  Wax finishes generally require waxing at least once a year certainly something to maintain. Polyurethane will scratch if those floors aren’t swept. So keep those floors clean with regular sweeping and dry mopping and the results will be less wear of your finish. Also remember, direct sunlight can fade the color of the flooring, as will age.

Cork floors can be installed over concrete sub-floors and even over your current floor depending on the material. Again if ever there is a problem with your floor once installed, in most cases it is not due to the product rather it is due to improper installation. It is always advisable to have a professional install your floor especially in areas where any moisture may linger.

The original cork floor is created using cork tiles. This process is trickier and requires adhesive in order to be secured to your floor. Tiles can either be unfinished or pre-finished.

Unfinished tiles are in a natural state which can be stained, painted and finished. These tiles have not been sealed, which is necessary. It is also possible to obtain tiles that have been stained in the factory but have not been finished. The advantage of this is that a sealer would go all over the floor covering all seams and edges resulting in a much stronger, and a more moisture resistant floor.

Pre finished cork tiles were finished in a factory and do not require sealing after installation. This involves less work to install, but are more susceptible to moisture penetration.

Cork flooring has also been made into a “click” flooring. Click technology allows for floors to be installed over existing floors depending on the material. Click cork flooring does not require any adhesive, and may or may not require a sealant.

 

We are starting a series of Green Building Materials. The series will list many different products and materials that you can use in your own home. We will cover different flooring options: bamboo, cork, sisal, eucalyptus, recycled carpet tiles, recycled rubber, wool carpeting, linoleum, and reclaimed wood. We will also cover different cement options such as Engineered cement, and TX Active cement. The different green roofing options such as cedar shingles, metal roofing, and living roofs. We will also discuss the different glass options, not only as windows and doors, but also as an alternative wall covering. We hope you will find this series to be helpful, and we look forward to hearing your input.

Having green flooring does not mean that you have to choose the color green for your home or office, but instead means that you have a green flooring option that is eco-friendly. There are great green flooring conscious options to choose from without sacrificing style and durability.

Since the flooring is generally the largest surface in your home, if you truly want to go as green as you can, you need to ensure that your actions are truly green. Being green is not as easy as you may think. Be sure to take a look at the big picture. Start as large as you can. Start with the ecosystem. If you really want to go as green as possible, take a look at where the products you want are coming from. Are the trees used for your flooring sustainable trees? Do they grow back rapidly once they have been cut down? Then you have to look at the carbon footprint that was made in the cutting down, harvesting, manufacturing, transporting, and installation of the flooring. If your floor has a smaller carbon footprint, and is considered more environmentally friendly.

Bamboo Flooring is one of the most popular options for green flooring. Bamboo flooring offers all the benefits of a hardwood flooring, but is made from eco-friendly bamboo. Bamboo is a naturally sustainable material that grows quickly in the wild, making it an excellent flooring option.  Compared to wood it grows much faster because bamboo is a grass not a wood. Moso Bamboo is the primary species used for the manufacturing of flooring and plywood. Moso bamboo can grow up to 47 inches in 24 hours and 78½ feet high in 40 to 50 days. It takes about 3–5 years for bamboo to reach full maturity. Traditional hard woods can take 20 – 120 years to mature. Bamboo can be harvested without the need to replant because the root system is left intact when it is harvested.

While no flooring surface is completely maintenance free, some are better than others, and bamboo has a better resiliency than softer floors like pine or vinyl. A bamboo floor, despite its rapid growth, proves to be extremely strong when cured and can handle the elements and high traffic areas.

The cost of bamboo flooring can vary greatly, depending on grade, finish, material percentage, veneer, etc. The entire spectrum of cost is well represented, from the high grade, imported solid bamboo planks, to the veneered floating floors available today at home improvement stores. Another cost-saver is the option of self-installation. That particular cost saving can be tremendous, depending on the application.

Style counts, and when it comes to bamboo floors, style is what it’s about. From its mellow light hues and colors, to its widely varying grains, bamboo can match almost any décor. Bamboo is typically very light, almost white in finish, but can be found tinted and finished in a dark color.  Another option is the finish; while bamboo is most commonly seen in a high gloss finish, matte and semi-gloss varieties can found, further enhancing its wide options. The many varieties of bamboo allow you the ability to tailor the finish and colors of the floor to your  specific needs, which puts bamboo ahead of some traditional flooring options.

Bamboo is one of the most adaptable flooring options available today. While some materials require lots of prep work to the subfloor, bamboo can be laid over a much wider variety of surfaces. Where a laminate may be needed for a vinyl or tile material, much less expensive plywood is a more than adequate surface for bamboo to be affixed to. Bamboo is far less sensitive to temperature changes than many other materials, like stone, tile or vinyl. While many materials are relegated to fair climate installations only, bamboo can be installed virtually anywhere.

For some hardwood materials, like mahogany or oak, handling and cutting can prove to be a chore in itself. This isn’t the case for bamboo; general hand tools, cross cut saws, compound miter saws and dovetail saws are perfect for finishing a home project. There is no need to use hardwood saws – despite its strength, bamboo is relatively easy to cut, and available in shorter sections so you can maneuver it easily around your work site.

In Japan, bamboo has historically been used for industrial scaffolding, so it’s certainly strong enough for your family’s flooring needs. Its natural make-up has proven it able to carry countless times its own weight, and that converts into a flooring surface which is virtually unbreakable. While it’s rare to find a flooring surface stronger than concrete (and by no means is bamboo stronger than concrete), bamboo gives it a run for its money in weight-to-strength ratio. If you are looking for a reasonably strong, lightweight floor, bamboo might be a viable option.

People instantly think of tile or marble when they are looking for a durable flooring surface, but bamboo can certainly be considered a top contender for longest lasting. Like any floor, it will eventually gain a nice patina, and if cared for, will start to warm and meld into a variety of tones and hues that add a lot of charm to floors.

Since its increase in recent popularity, bamboo has gone from a difficult to find and somewhat obscure material, to a widely available surface found at almost any home improvement center. Originally, if you were looking to install bamboo in your home, you had to search high and low, in flooring houses and lumber yards. Now it’s virtually everywhere, and being used in such high volume that your choices of manufacturer and vendor are virtually unlimited.

Knowing all of this, it is easy to see that bamboo flooring is a great green option for you.

 

VOC

On February 3, 2011, in General Information, by jackie
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What Are They?

VOC or Volatile Organic Compound, are a large group of carbon-based chemicals that easily evaporate at room temperature. While most people can smell high levels of some VOC, other VOC have no odor. Odor does not indicate the level of risk from inhalation of this group of chemicals. They are a major concern of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and state air quality boards all over the United States. VOC have been found to be a major contributing factor to ozone, a common air pollutant which has been proven to be a public health hazard.

Where Are They Found?

Many products we have in our homes release VOC. Some examples of sources of VOC are building materials, carpets and adhesives, composite wood products, paints, sealing caulks, solvents, upholstery fabrics, varnishes, vinyl floors, home and personal care products, air fresheners, cleaning and disinfecting chemicals, cosmetics, fuel oil, gasoline, moth balls, and vehicle exhaust.

What Health Effects Do They Create?

VOC can cause respiratory, skin, and eye irritation; headaches; nausea; muscle weakness; and more serious ailments and diseases, according to the EPA. Formaldehyde, a VOC commonly found in paint, is a probable carcinogen. The risk of health effects from inhaling any chemical depends on how much is in the air, how long and how often a person breathes it in. Scientists look at short-term (acute) exposures as hours to days or long-term (chronic) exposures as years to even lifetime. Breathing low levels of VOC for long periods of time may increase some people’s risk of health problems. Several studies suggest that exposure to VOC may make symptoms worse in people who have asthma or are particularly sensitive to chemicals.

Short-Term (Acute) to high levels of VOC can lead to eye, nose, and throat irritation, headaches, nausea/vomiting, dizziness, and worsening of asthma symptoms.

Long-Term (Chronic) to high levels of VOC can cause an increased risk of: cancer, liver damage, kidney damage, and Central Nervous System damage.

Indoor VOC vs. Outdoor VOC

Studies have found that levels of several organics average 2 to 5 times higher indoors than outdoors. During and for several hours immediately after certain activities, such as paint stripping, levels may be 1,000 times background outdoor levels.

Reducing Exposure In Your Home

Although home screening kits (devices) are available to measure total volatile organic compound levels they are of limited use and won’t correct a VOC problem. Instead of testing, the first step is to conduct an inspection of your home for the common sources of VOC. Sources that may be problematic include household furnishings which tend to release more VOC when they are new. Increase ventilation when using products that emit VOC. Meet or exceed any label precautions. Do not store opened containers of unused paints and similar materials within the school. Formaldehyde, one of the best known VOC, is one of the few indoor air pollutants that can be readily measured. Identify, and if possible, remove the source. If not possible to remove, reduce exposure by using a sealant on all exposed surfaces of paneling and other furnishings. Use integrated pest management techniques to reduce the need for pesticides. Use household products according to manufacturer’s directions. Make sure you provide plenty of fresh air when using these products. Throw away unused or little-used containers safely; buy in quantities that you will use soon. Keep out of reach of children and pets. Never mix household care products unless directed on the label.

Low and No VOC Products Paints

Low and No-VOC paint can be applied in exactly the same way as conventional, high-VOC paints. In general, low-VOC paints are comparable in price to conventional paints; no-VOC paint tends to be slightly more expensive. Additionally, low-VOC and no-VOC paints aren’t considered hazardous waste materials, so disposal is much easier than with standard paints. One difference that you may discover is that very low-VOC and no-VOC paints are not available in very dark or intense colors. If you need to use dark colors, you’ll have to look to the “low-VOC” paints with the highest amount of VOC. The amount of VOC in “low-VOC” paint can vary widely, so it’s a good idea to read the label carefully. In general, if you use paint with a VOC level of less than 10 mg/liter, you’re doing pretty well. Read the labels carefully – paints with much higher levels of VOC than that can legally be called “low-VOC” paint. Here’s a list of companies that produce or sell low-VOC and no-VOC paints, along with links to additional information about each product.

AFM (American Formulating and Manufacturing) www.afmsafecoat.com

Benjamin Moore & Co. (Pristine® Eco-Spec® ) www.benjaminmoore.com

BioShield Paints www.bioshieldpaint.com

Devoe Paint www.devoe.com

Duron Paints and Wallcoverings (Genesis Odor-Free products) www.duron.com

Home Depot www.homedepot.com

ICI Dulux Paints www.iciduluxpaints.com

Kelly Moore www.kellymoore.com

Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company www.milkpaint.com

Sherwin-Williams (HealthSpec® paints) www.sherwin.com

Plywood:

PureBond Hardwood Plywood is made with no added formaldehyde which means families can reduce their VOC exposure. The PureBond Plywood has versatility in its use including home furniture, wood cabinets to making children’s toys. The best part is that PureBond is competitively priced with traditional plywood making it an affordable option for anyone.

http://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/PureBond.aspx

Cabinetry:

Zwanette Design Cabinetry is a perfect example of a business ‘doing good by being good,’ offering farm-grown domestic and exotic hardwoods, bamboo, recycled palm and wood, agricultural byproducts like kirei, formaldehyde-free products, and woods from FSC-Certified sources.

Flooring:

This website lists many flooring options with a wide variety of flooring choices. Bamboo, cork, linoleum, and carpeting. They also list other low and no VOC products.http://www.yourhomeyourworld.com/products.html

 

Fiber Cement Siding

On January 25, 2011, in Building Materials, by jackie
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Approximately 15% of all homes now have fiber cement siding, as opposed to vinyl or wood siding.  Fiber-cement siding is composed of cement, sand, and cellulose fiber that has been autoclaved (cured with pressurized steam) to increase its strength and dimensional stability.  The fiber is added as a reinforcement to prevent cracking.
Fiber Siding is designed to resemble any other type of siding.  Wood siding, masonry siding, and stucco can be made out of cement fiber.  It provides more options, such as different textures, profiles, and colors.  It also holds paint well, which allows for customization.  If you want the look of an authentic siding with less maintenance, cement fiber is a good option.
The make up of fiber cement siding is about 45% cement, 45% silica sand, and 10% wood fiber.  Fiber-cement siding releases silica dust when it is cut.  Silica dust is extremely fine and can lead to respiratory problems if inhaled over long periods of time.  Excessive dust creation while cutting may require additional control methods.  Decrease the ability of this becoming a serious problem by using the proper cutting technique and wearing a respirator any time you work with Cement Fiber Siding.
Like wood siding, fiber-cement siding is installed over studs or exterior wall sheathing with an appropriate weather-resistant barrier, using galvanized nails or screws that penetrate into wall studs.  The fiber cement planks should be cut with a blade designed specifically for fiber-cement dust reduction, such as Hitachi’s Hardiblade or Dewalt’s PCD Fiber Cement Blade. Alternatively, snapper shears, or a guillotine-type cutter can be used.
For finishing, fiber-cement products come either primed or unprimed.  An alkaline-resistant primer is required, and manufacturers generally recommend using a 100% Acrylic topcoat.  Manufacturers emphasize that fiber-cement siding is appropriate for hot and humid climates because it is resistant to rot, fungus, and termite infestation.  They also state that it has excellent weathering characteristics, strength, and impact resistance.
Unlike wood, fiber cement is not susceptible to termites or water, and it is not combustible. Unlike aluminum or vinyl, it can withstand extreme cold temperatures without showing any effects, making it a very durable option.
Installation is not a simple process, and many problems can occur, as fiber cement is much heavier than wood.  It also will not cover problems with underlying frames like wood does.
There are 3 major producers and manufacturers of fiber cement siding. James Hardie, CertainTeed, and Nichiha. All 3 manufacturers produce similar siding, such as wood and stucco, yet they each specialize individual colors.
Fire Resistance of Cement Fiber Siding Cement Fiber Siding is not Fire PROOF, but it is fire RESISTANT. Click the link to see a video showing a demonstration of James Hardie cement fiber siding vs. wood and vinyl siding in a fire. This video is of James Hardie siding, yet any manufacturer of cement fiber siding would give you the same result.
Warranties
James Hardie:
HardiePlank HZ5 Lap Siding 30 Year Limited Warranty.  http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/warranty/hz5.pdf
HardiePlank HZ10 Lap Siding 30 Year Limited Warranty.
HardiePlank Lap Siding 50 Year Express Limited Transferable Product Warranty. http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/warranty-panelplank-us.pdf
Certainteed:
CertainTeed ColorMax (R) 15 Year Limited Warranty.
CertainTeed Fiber Cement Trim 25 Year Limited Warranty.
WeatherBoards 50 Year Limited Warranty.
Nichiha:
Each Product has its own warranty.  http://www.nichiha.com/literature_main.htm
Since fiber cement siding does not need to be maintained, homeowners do not have to pay for upkeep or maintenance.  According to stopwaste.org “long lasting, low maintenance exterior finish products reduce replacement frequency, resulting in cost savings, reduced landfill impact, and fewer resources devoted to maintenance and replacement.”   Fiber Cement Siding is manufactured from renewable resources that are readily available (cement, sand, water, and wood pulp or fly ash).  Its durability and long life will slow the filling of our landfills with other inferior siding products.  Installation of primed siding would require repainting of the siding every 10 to 12 years, depending on your location.
 

Water Heaters

On January 20, 2011, in General Information, by jackie
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According to the Department of Energy, Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, heating your hot water tank is the 3rd largest user of energy, accounting for 15% to 30% of your energy expenses. Tankless water heaters are a great alternative to the conventional tanked water heater. A tankless water system can generally lower your monthly costs, not only financially, but also in energy consumption, thus making your home more energy efficient.
Tankless water heaters are also called “On-Demand Water Heaters”, or “Instantaneous Water Heaters”. The biggest difference between a tankless water heater, and a conventional tanked water heater is the tank. A tankless water heater does not require the huge resivoir that needs to constantly be heated, 24 hours a day. Tankless water heaters heat the water instantly, as soon as the hot water tap is turned on, at a general rate of 2 to 5 gallons per minute. A traditional tanked water heater has a limited ammount of water that it can provide by the size of the tank. A tankless water heater will provide you with constant hot water until you shut it off. Likewise, when your hot water tap is not turned on, you are not using any energy.
Once you decide on a tankless water heater, you will also need to choose either an electric or gas heater. Both have different requirements. Electric tankless heaters require you have voltage, amperage and a circut breaker. Many retailers sell tankless water heaters that will accomidate the various types of electric. You will also have to make sure you can support the electrical demands and various requirements in amp draw. You wil have to ensure you have a circut(s) that can support the water heater. Any qualified electrician can consult with you , and tell you exactly what you would need.
If you decide you want a gas tankless water heater, you will need to have specific venting requirements you will have to meet. Your first decision will be whether you will use propane or natural gas. Then you will have to examine whether your current gas lines will support the tankless water heater. When it comes to venting the tankless water heater, you will have to consider the requirements for the specific installation. You may have to check with your local building code to ensure compliance. Most tankless water heaters comew with venting kits, but save yourself time and money, and ensure the kit will be correct for your application prior to installation.
After you have chosen gas or electric, there are some common considerations you will have to make. You need to know the location of the heater. This may mean you will need to purchase separate pieces of installation kit for gas applications. You will also need to determine whether your tank will be a single point application (one sink), a multipoint application (entire bathroom), or a whole house application. You should try to the best of your ability to over guess the ammount of water your home uses in a day, as to determine which tankless water heater would best suit your situation.
The most important thing you can do when replacing your water heater is to educate yourself. Ask questions. Be open to the answers that best suit your needs. If a tankless water heater would not be the best choice for your situatin, dont worry. Chances are, the newer tanked water heaters are more energy efficient than they were the last time you had to purchase one!
 

Insulation 101

On January 17, 2011, in Building Materials, by jackie
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Did you know that over 50% of the energy used in the average American home is from heating and cooling?  Most of the wasted energy is caused by inadequate insulating and air leaks within the home. Insulation helps to maintain a uniform temperature throughout your house, and helps to make walls, ceilings, and floors warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.  The various types of insulation will also rid your home of air leaks within the attic and walls.

The flow of heat goes from a warmer space to a cooler one. In winter, the heat moves directly from all heated living spaces, to the outdoors and to adjacent unheated attics, garages, and basements – wherever there is a difference in temperature. During the summer, heat moves from outdoors to the house interior. To maintain comfort, the heat lost in winter must be replaced by your heater, and the heat gained in summer must be removed by your air conditioner. Insulating ceilings, walls, and floors decreases the heating or cooling needed by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.

Batts, blankets, loose fill, and low-density foams all work by limiting air movement. The still air is an effective insulator because it eliminates convection and has low conduction. Some foams are filled with special gases that provide additional resistance to heat flow.

To find the best form of insulation for your specific situation depends on a few different factors.  How much insulation is needed for your space, how easy is it to access the area needing insulation, the size of the space needing insulation, and other considerations unique to each purchaser.

Whenever you compare insulation products, it is critical that you base your comparison on equal R-values.  Insulation is rated in terms of thermal resistance, called R-value, which indicates the resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness. The R-value of thermal insulation depends on the type of material, its thickness and its density.

No matter what kind of insulation you buy, be sure to check the information on the product label to make sure that the product is suitable for your intended application. To protect consumers, the Federal Trade Commission has very strict and concise rules about the R-value label that must be placed on all residential insulation products. This is whether they are purchased and installed by professionals, or they are purchased at a local supply store and installed by you. These labels include a clearly stated R-value and information about health, safety, and fire-hazard issues. Take time to read the label BEFORE installing the insulation.

Many special products have been developed to give higher R-values with less thickness. On the other hand, some materials require a greater initial thickness to offset eventual settling or to ensure that you get the rated R-value under a range of temperature conditions.

Blankets are flexible products made from mineral fibers. They are made wide enough for standard spacings of wall studs and attic or floor joists. They must be hand-cut and trimmed to fit wherever the joist spacing is non-standard (such as near windows, doors, or corners) or where there are obstructions in the walls (such as wires, electrical outlet boxes, or pipes).

Batts can be installed by homeowners or professionals. They are available with or without vapor-retarder facings. Batts with a special flame-resistant facing are available in various widths for any walls where the insulation will be left exposed.

Blown-in loose-fill insulation is in the form of loose fibers or fiber pellets that are blown using specialized equipment, usually by professional installers. This form is  appropriate for unfinished attic floors, for irregularly shaped areas, and for filling in around obstructions.

Spray foam insulation is a two-part liquid containing a polymer agent and a foaming agent. It is sprayed into small spaces and cracks to make things airtight. This particular type of insulation is very thorough and works well for irregularly shaped areas. When applied, it is in liquid form but expands quickly into a solid plastic consisting of millions of tiny air-filled cells. Spray foam insulation can be applied by a professional who mixes and sprays into place, but it can also be purchased at a hardware store in a can and applied without professional help. Foam insulation is produced in two forms: open-cell and closed-cell. In general, open-celled foam allows water vapor to move through the material more easily than closed-cell foam. However, open-celled foams usually have a lower R-value for a given thickness compared to closed-cell foams. So, some of the closed-cell foams are able to provide a greater R-value where space is limited.

Reflective insulation systems are fabricated from aluminum foils with a variety of backings such as kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard. The resistance to heat flow depends on the heat flow direction, and this type of insulation is most effective in reducing downward heat flow. Reflective systems are typically located between roof rafters, floor joists, or wall studs. If a single reflective surface is used alone and faces an open space, such as an attic, it is called a radiant barrier.

Radiant barriers are installed in buildings to reduce summer heat gain and winter heat loss. In new buildings, you can select foil-faced wood products for your roof sheathing (installed with the foil facing down into the attic) or other locations to provide the radiant barrier as an integral part of the structure. For existing buildings, the radiant barrier is typically fastened across the bottom of joists. All radiant barriers must have a low emittance (0.1 or less) and high reflectance (0.9 or more).

Now you have had the Insulation 101. Make your decisions wisely, and never be afraid to ask questions. Any qualified professional should be able to help you.